Hi, I live in San Diego. For the most part, our weather is mild so we hvae no need of an A/C. But, there are certain times where it would be nice to be able to cool the house down at night. So, I have been looking at Whole House Fans. We have a two story house with a very large attic space. There are three bedrooms on the first floor (master + 2 kids) plus 2 bedrooms upstairs (guest and play room). What things do I need to consider with respect to getting/installing a whole house fan? Some specific questions I have are: 1) Can one fan be positioned for the whole house (i.e. if I place it at the top of the stairs, will the rooms on the first floor furthest from the fan still get cooled)? 2) How noisy are these fans? 3) How difficult is it to install myself? 4) Approximate cost I should be looking for? Any other thoughts you had would be appreciated! Thanks!
Attic fans rely on two things. A place for the air to go, and a place for the air to come from. Your attic needs to be properly vented for the amount of air that you will be putting up there. And, it will not work if all the windows in the house are closed. Are you prepared to have open, unlocked windows on the ground floor? Maybe cooling the ground floor is not going to be a consideration at night... Then there is the installation. They don't fit between the normal roof rafter spacing. Careful consideration should be given to the area that you are wanting to install it so that you do not weaken the ceiling structure in the house.
Whole house fans are a great way to cool a house! Here in WI, I use mine almost every night during the spring and fall. I have installed several and I love them. You should position the fan in a central location such as a 2nd floor hallway. When the fan runs, it will pull cool air into the house through ANY open windows. Noise will be dependent on the design of the fan. As a rule, belt-driven fans are quieter and longer lasting, but slightly more expensive. Direct-drive fans tend to be noisier, but cost less. Either type can be installed without cutting joists by building a plenum above the joists, and using a split shutter. Often, fans include both. If you have a fair grasp of DIY skills, you should be able to install it yourself. Plan on having a seperate circuit for your fan. As MD mentioned, you need to have adequate venting in your attic to handle the CFM from the fan. This is imperative for proper operation of the fan. As I said, cost depends on the type of fan you buy. I strongly prefer the belt-driven style for the reasons I mentioned above. Remember, a larger fan turning more slowly will be quieter than a smaller fan turning fast. A couple good brands are Dayton (from Grainger, if you can buy from them), and Trianglefans dot com. Let us know if you have any other questions
heres a link to a dayton whole house fan belt driven http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/wwg...mId=1611763488
Thanks for the replies so far... (keep em coming!) With respect to making sure I have enough venting in my attic, our attic currently has a single gable vent on the side of the attic that is about 2 ft x 3 ft. I was considering installing an attic fan on that vent as well. If I installed an attic fan with enough capacity to flush out the air from the whole house fan, is that sufficient? Also, can any whole house fan I purchase be mounted vertically? The way my house is set up is that I have a huge walk-in attic that is at the same level as my second story (door right off the hallway). I was considering installing the fan in the wall in the upstairs hallway into the attic. Does this make sense? Thanks!
No you have to mount them on the ceiling like it says view the link it tells you everything you need to know about the fan. The price for the one in the link is $486.75 + shipping from what I read this is the way to go.Its by dayton Originally Posted by djlewis110 Thanks for the replies so far... (keep em coming!) With respect to making sure I have enough venting in my attic, our attic currently has a single gable vent on the side of the attic that is about 2 ft x 3 ft. I was considering installing an attic fan on that vent as well. If I installed an attic fan with enough capacity to flush out the air from the whole house fan, is that sufficient? Also, can any whole house fan I purchase be mounted vertically? The way my house is set up is that I have a huge walk-in attic that is at the same level as my second story (door right off the hallway). I was considering installing the fan in the wall in the upstairs hallway into the attic. Does this make sense? Thanks!
Also, can any whole house fan I purchase be mounted vertically? The way my house is set up is that I have a huge walk-in attic that is at the same level as my second story (door right off the hallway). I was considering installing the fan in the wall in the upstairs hallway into the attic. Does this make sense? For sure do it that way .In fact the motor will like better. ED
If you plan to mount the fan vertically on an attic endwall, don't buy a whole-house fan. Look for a belt-driven exhaust fan instead. Whole house fans are designed to draw the air into the front of the fan (blade side), wheras an exhaust fan draws from the motor side of the fan. I know you are thinking well, what if I just reverse the rotation? The fan won't operate efficiently that way. Look in the catalog Lex linked to for other types of exhaust fans. Dayton is good, but Grainger is mainly a wholesaler, and usually won't sell retail. (usually) Edit- I re-read your post, and just noticed that you mentioned mounting it in the interior wall into the attic behind. You could simply mount the whole house fan with the blade side facing the interior hallway, but you will need a different style of shutter than the ceiling mounted style. I would strongly encourage installing a grille to keep fingers, arms, hair, babies, etc. from being sucked in while the fan is on.
OK if he wants an exhaust fan heres what I found for attic exhaust fan http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/wwg...rchL1=Fans%2C what do you mean they won't sell retail He can't buy from them.
Sorry for the confusion... I am actually considering a whole house fan AND an attic exhaust fan. My original post was concerning the whole house fan. Then, when people started talking about making sure the attic had proper ventilation, I started wondering about installing an attic fan in addition to the whole house fan... Thanks!
well if you want both then go for what I posted in the links they are what you want. The whole house fan http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/wwg...mId=1611763488 the exhaust fan http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/wwg...rchL1=Fans%2C
Lex, Grainger is a wholesale seller, not a retail business. Normally they only sell to businesses, not individuals. DJ, Check the sizing charts in both the Grainger catalog, and on the Triangle site. An attic exhaust fan is not a substitute for adequate free-air openings from the attic to outside. You MUST have the required square inches of free exhaust area for your whole house fan to operate its best.
Well at least he knows what to look for and how much hes going to have to spend . I'll see where else he can get them. Ok he can get one at home depot for around $189 and he can have it shiped to his house and you vent it into the attic at least thats what it says.And it works with or with out centrel heating or air. Or try this site. http://www.wholehousefan.com/
Unless you used several, the fans you linked to move nowhere near enough air to function adequately as a whole house fan. The brand you linked to uses two Comair-Rotron Condor fans on a single frame to make up their whole-house fan. Those fans are commonly used in large pieces of electronic equipment for cabinet exhaust. True, they are high quality, but they are too weak to do the job. They're just big Muffin fans. There is no magic here; what goes into the attic must come out. Use the charts provided on the other sites to determine the amount of vents you'll need.
Originally Posted by Andrew Unless you used several, the fans you linked to move nowhere near enough air to function adequately as a whole house fan. The brand you linked to uses two Comair-Rotron Condor fans on a single frame to make up their whole-house fan. Those fans are commonly used in large pieces of electronic equipment for cabinet exhaust. True, they are high quality, but they are too weak to do the job. They're just big Muffin fans. There is no magic here; what goes into the attic must come out. Use the charts provided on the other sites to determine the amount of vents you'll need. Sorry djlewis110 Im leading you in the wrong direction Andrew why are the fans I link you to called whole house fans if they are not powerful enough The only one that would do the job is at granger.So when you install a whole house fan are you useing one or two Im getting me and djlewis110 confused.Lets figure this out so the poor guy can get the fan he needs.
This one should suck the stink off the kids: big fan or this one should suck the clthes off the kids, see page 12 of the pdf: Big ass fan company (really) The first link is from MSC. I believe they sell retail. I have an customer account there seperate from my company so I think anybody can.
Originally Posted by lexmarks567 heres a link to a dayton whole house fan belt driven http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/wwg...mId=1611763488 Ok heres a link that tells you everything you need to know about whole house fans and should tell you what size you need.And it will tell you how much venting in the attic is needed.I just read the entire story and its very helpful http://www.hvacquick.com/wholehousef...OVMTC=standard
If you have gable ends on your house you can add motorized louvers to remove the air you put in the attic.
Just large open vent louvers on all the gables .Open all the time so they can vent the attic if the fan is off or on would be the way to go. If you have a Grainger cat. #396 go page #3704 They have the split shutters to fit over ceiling truss. can check on grainger.com Like said You should have 1 sq ft of vent for every 150sq ft of attic. !/2 in and 1/2 out For just a vent fan for the attic attic sq ft X 0.7=== CFM of fan ED
Tags: whole, house, whole house, attic that, into attic, whole house, considering installing, grainger Grainger, house that, http grainger, http grainger Grainger, Also whole, Also whole house
I have an Ariens 824 from 2001 with the Tecumseh HMSK80 spec# 155699W engine. In Apr 2009 I had the carburetor replaced with the Tecumseh 632334A carburetor. The original carburetor surged badly and needed to be repaired or replaced. We had our first big snow storm in eastern Kansas yesterday, and this was my first heavy use of the snow blower with the new carburetor. As the work developed I found that I could not keep the engine at full throttle unless I had it almost fully choked (choke on almost all the way). It seemed at each restarting during the morning I had to use progressively more choke. What is the problem? Can I fix it myself? Thank you.
Shut off the gas or drain the tank. Then remove the bolt on the bottom of the float bowl. DO NOT REMOVE THE BOWL. The bolt has 2 holes in it. The big hole is easy to see. The small hole located 2-3 threads up is just a tiny pinhole. This is the hole everybody misses. This is the hole that needs to be cleaned. Use a small torch tip cleaner or try a paper clip. You may have to soak it for a couple hours to lossen the dirt.
I was looking at a diagram of the Tecumseh 632334A carburetor in Disassembly of Tecumseh (Lauson) Series 3 Carburetor 632334a and it shows the idle fuel transfer port in the bowl nut, but that diagram shows no other hole. I assume what you suggest is take the bowl nut and gasket carefully off leaving the needle screw as it is in the bowl nut. Then is it the idle fuel transfer port that has to be cleaned? Also, when the bowl nut is reinserted, is it just nominally tightened?
The 2001 carb is a fixed jet. No adjustment. The carb in the diagram is a pre 1995 adjustable carb. If you do have the adjustable carb, the hole in pic #6 is the hole to make sure is clean. Lightly seat the screw, then adjust the screw 1-1/2 turns out.
At the time the carburetor replacement was done it was hard to get Tecumseh carburetors. Originally the carburetor was the 640052 nonadjustable, and it was replaced by the 640349 likewise nonadjustable. Someplace in the forums the pre-EPA 632334A was suggested as being available, and if properly adjusted, then it is a very robust carburetor enhancing the HMSK80 performance. Tecumseh had gone bankrupt and OPE users were scrambling to find replacement parts. After I clean out the idle transfer port as you suggest, is it okay to replace the bowl nut with the original gasket? Then, I presume I have to readjust the main mixture screw and the idle mixture screw. My data shows the main pre-set is 1-1/2 turns out, and the idle pre-set is 1 turn out. From there I have to make the final adjustments. Excuse the naive questions. The only DIY I usually do is change the oil and spark plug on the snow blower. Thank you.
Originally Posted by Richard904 At the time the carburetor replacement was done it was hard to get Tecumseh carburetors. Originally the carburetor was the 640052 nonadjustable, and it was replaced by the 640349 likewise nonadjustable. Someplace in the forums the pre-EPA 632334A was suggested as being available, and if properly adjusted, then it is a very robust carburetor enhancing the HMSK80 performance. Tecumseh had gone bankrupt and OPE users were scrambling to find replacement parts. After I clean out the idle transfer port as you suggest, is it okay to replace the bowl nut with the original gasket? Then, I presume I have to readjust the main mixture screw and the idle mixture screw. My data shows the main pre-set is 1-1/2 turns out, and the idle pre-set is 1 turn out. From there I have to make the final adjustments. Excuse the naive questions. The only DIY I usually do is change the oil and spark plug on the snow blower. Thank you. Yes, you can reuse the gasket if it looks good, not torn any where. Yes, 1-1/2 tunrs out from lightly seat is the starting adjustment for both low high speed settings. The screw on the bowl is high speed. Tecumseh DID NOT go bankrupt. They were bought by investors who were only interested in the Air Conditioning part of the company. They knew nothing about small engines, and with small engines accounting for only 5% of the business, they decided to drop it. They were able to sell Peerless transmisions to Husqvarna. No one was willing to buy the engines.
Originally Posted by indypower1 Yes, you can reuse the gasket if it looks good, not torn any where. Yes, 1-1/2 tunrs out from lightly seat is the starting adjustment for both low high speed settings. The screw on the bowl is high speed. Tecumseh DID NOT go bankrupt. They were bought by investors who were only interested in the Air Conditioning part of the company. They knew nothing about small engines, and with small engines accounting for only 5% of the business, they decided to drop it. They were able to sell Peerless transmisions to Husqvarna. No one was willing to buy the engines. Actually I believe the original tecumseh company continued in the air condtioning compressor business and sold the engine/transaxle business to an Equity group. That group then sold the peerless stuff and quit making engines and then later sold engine parts and engine rights to a parts company.
Tags: tecumseh, hmsk80, needs, full, choke, high speed, mixture screw, small engines, They were, transfer port, screw bowl, snow blower
Hi, I'm a very handy guy, but I could see where this job might be a bit much. I have several steel lintels that have been corroded to the point that replacement is necessary. The expansion has caused the typical cracks that will need to be repointed as well. Is this something I can do myself? Common sense warns me that the wall will have to be supported over the window and door that require lintel replacement during the operation. Is that true? Can I do this myself? It seems like this sort of repair is outrageously expensive to hire out.
never seen a lintle that was bad enough with corrosion/rust to replace. here in Tn. older houses have 1/4 in. lintles. newer ones are thinner, but should last a lifetime. as far as replacing them, it can be a booger. if the bricks/rock/whatever is cracked/loose above the lintle, it could get interesting. if you are real handy, you may want to try one that is not so visible and see how it goes. caution and patience seem to be in order!!
How odd. I was staring up at a steel lintel supporting brick veneer, above the condo's picture window, just hours ago! A manifestation of thoughts. If yours also is brick veneer, then there should be standard framing cosntruction with a header system also, that is really carrying the load (the roof) from above. The lintel is just carrying the few bricks above. You must either live next to the ocean or have some serious water flashing problem there, or have some nearby factory fumigating the area with acid-air, or something to be - like completely rusting away? I've never seen that either. I'd sure want to try to figure out what is going on. It be neat if you could post some photos here. Both close up and some perspective shots, to see what maybe is going on in the area. How old si the place/how long these lintels been in place?
It does not have to rust away to structural deficiency to cause problems. As he notes, the expansion of the steel by rusting will cause cracking above the wall opening, which allows water penetration which causes more rust, etc. I would not advise anyone who was not familiar with masonry design to DIY the repair. It can cause catastrophic failure of the wall at worst, and it is not even a job for a normal run of the mill Masonry Contractor.
I live in SW Louisiana. One lintel in particular, over the kitchen window, is extremely corroded. I think it's because we get these periods of the year when the rain is very heavy, and the yard is very shaded. The front of the house, where the yard is better drained and less shaded doesn't show the corrosion. In any case, the kitchen window lintel has expanded from about 1/4 inch to about 1/2 inch in thickness, and has caused cracks in the mortar parallel to the lintel. The other lintel is above a French door, and the corrosion has only occurred on one side of the lintel, which means I've got a little rotation, and a stepwise crack running from the lintel to the sill of the triple window above. I will get a photo of the bad one above the kitchen window. I should note that a sunroom was added probably about 20 years ago about 3 feet away from the window in question. It's possible that the corrosion occurred because of the runoff from the sunroom window. There is a coating of algae on the brick veneer under the window and over the sunroom roof. I should also note that I just replaced a leaky faucet under that window (outside) that looks like it may have been dripping for years. The house was build in 1964. Is there an alternative to replacement? Can I clean these things up somehow and just repoint? I'm comfortable doing that if it's all it needs.
You seem somewhat familiar with the terms and what is involved. Take some pics, and I may be able to help you with a plan of action.
Tags: replacing, steel, lintels, brick veneer, kitchen window, about inch, familiar with, have been, have some, never seen, note that
Good morning again, In a recent incident (no pun intended), a tree jumped out from the woods and dented the rear bumper on my wife's Toyota. The body shops all say that bumper replacement is the only option ($$$$). There are a few companies around here (as recommended by some friends) that specialize in bumper dent removal and refinishing (evidently they pop out the dent, fill if needed and repaint). It makes sense, but is this a valid option? Of course, the cost is what intrigues me, but I don't want to flush cash down the toilet either. Thanks a bunch!
those plastic bumber covers are only semi rigid...so it has a crater in it, correct? i used a heat gun once and popped one out for a friend on a 2000 windstar. Yeah...the paint remained cracked but I actually got it to pop out pretty uniformly and with the crater gone, your eyes are not drawn to the damaged area so easily. you might try it and see if you can live with it before you spend any money on it. take your time and warm it slowly, keep the heat moving as you can cook the paint if you hold it too close or too still...gently begin pushing from behind...you'll be able to feel it as it becomes pliable...until you have the whole area pushed back out. I used a bunch of rags over my fist to push as the plastic gets pretty warm.
Dave, I'm sure one of the auto experts will be here soon, but heck, I've fixed small dents and dings in plastic bumpers all by myself. I was lucky and the creased/cracked paint was barely noticable. I have seen several magazine articles about doing it yourself as well. I wouldn't hesitate to check into these repair services, but it would depend on the extent of damage to the steel underneath, I would think. Heck as a matter of fact, I messed up a ladies Camry rear bumper, and the dealer body shop repaired and repainted the cover, instead of replacing the whole thing.
It all depends on how bad it is and good you want it to turn out. They are repairable if the dent just needs popped out and filled. There's material for that type of repair that you could do yourself. It about like a Bondo type of repair. If it's an older car or one that less than perfect doesn't bother you, an average person could do a decent job on it. The repair on the bumper isn't near what the painting of it is though. If you do all the priming, flex additive and what ever paint you need, it can all add up. If it's a white pearl tri coat, only someone who is very good at it will get it to match. You run into a problem with a DIY job since you have no place to go with the leftover paint, cost of the gun/equipment, place to do it, etc.. You can get it premixed in an aerosol can, but that is a compromise in quality. You can always rationalize doing it yourself with hey, it'll get hit again sometime, anyway. Hope this helps, Bob
Thanks for the rapid replies!! I do not intend to do it myself, but I am looking at some of the independent people who do it for a living (not the big body shops). It sounds like it is doable, and in the hands of a professional, hopefully it will look good (they claim to match the paint and finish it up as good as new). The difference is several hundred dollars between dent repair and bumper replacement! Y'all have convinced me it is at least looking into. Thanks
Have you actually priced bumper covers, Dave; some are not that pricey, although you would need to paint them. Here's example (you didn't say year model, but here's an '01 Camry): http://www.ezbodyparts.com/buy/index...AMRYyear=2001
Tags: plastic, bumper, dent, removal, body shops, bumper replacement, doing yourself, rear bumper, repair bumper, type repair
Hello DIYers, I'm really interested in fiberglass windows but the whole window universe reminds me of buying a mattress - smarmy sales folks telling half truths at obscene markups. And I'm a sales guy! I've read the Marvin sites, talked to different sales folks and still don't understand the difference between their Integrity and Infinity. It just seems like Marvin is marketing the same product under two different distributor networks. Please correct me if I'm wrong. As far as pricing - I'm looking at 8 40x60 windows (there about), all fiberglass/ultrex, with grilles (two vertical bars) in the upper section only. Some online forums I've seen after a Marvin Infinity (or Integrity) cost are saying $500-800/window installed. One quote on the Infinity's we received as $1400+ per window. What's a fair estimate or is there somewhere I can buy and install myself? I've done my own replacement installs before. Thank you all for any info and help in advance.
I believe that you can buy directly from Marvin but there are no refunds or exchanges. If you buy it, you own it. With any of those companies, they use subcontractors for the installs. They aren't employees. I never liked that idea.
Well, after a few calls to Marvin I got a knowledgeable, friendly and helpful person. So for anyone else searching for the difference between Integrity and Infinity, here you go. Infinity - only sold through limited retailers and can only be sold at an installed price. You cannot just buy the window. The window sash is beefier and meant to be more architectural and the step down from the aluminum clad. Sold only as a replacement window. Integrity - can be bought direct at a dealer. Meant to be a competitor to vinyl. Sold as full frame or replacement. Both - they are made from the same material and can be specced with nearly the same options. Here's a diagram showing the two where you can see the sash differences.
So, order what you want through the correct source. Do your own installation if you can.
Hi, we bought a house and need to buy window treatment for 50 or so windows. Will use some hunter Douglas to take advantage of the tax credit for Architella and rebate, but will use more reasonable priced brands for the rest. Will stay with cellular shades and wood / foux wood blinds. Other brands that were offered were Kathy Ireland (ALta Window Fashions) and Comfortex. Both are supposedly owned by Hunter Douglas . Can someone give me some idea how good/ bad Kathy Ireland and Comfortex products are in cellular shades and blinds? I especially appreciate experience with these two brands after years of use (i.e. duability, customer service if needed, etc). Is hunter Douglas worth the premium they're charging? Thanks!!!
The internal mechanics in the hunter douglas brand always seems superior in function and long term use. I work as an installer in chicago and it seems that if anything is better than hunter douglas, they will just buy the company and use any superior designs they see fit. Any inferior products theuy continue selling under the old name and raise the price so that the HD product doesn't look so expensive. From what I see, the mark up on the HD is high on the designers end.. I do believe the warranty on the HD lasts much longer than the comfortex. in short, if you can afford the HD, buy the HD.. Its always going to be the best product. If you cant afford it, then go with the comfortex/bali/levelor/etc etc.. Also.. Home depot use to carry hunter douglas and now will only offer it through a 3rd party home consultation.. But they do still sell the exact same product under a new odd name.. This is evident by the silhouette shades on display that are clearly HD products with an odd name. This may be the cheapest option for a hd product for a lesser price If you have 50 windows to do I would treat your house like a commercial job and request bids from local suppliers. Compensate a designer to come to your house and go through all your option with the understanding you want the sizes, colors,specs, and any other important ordering details. Please dont lure a designer out there without telling them you dont plan on purchasing from them.. Many will be happy to spend all the time you need at your home for a price per hour. Get your product details you decided on and fax/email it to all the local shops, and wait for the best price
Tags: hunter, douglas, kathy, ireland, comfortex, Kathy Ireland, cellular shades, Ireland Comfortex, Kathy Ireland Comfortex, name This, under name, your house
I have a GE water softener which cycles through the regeneration process but does not soften the water. Through trouble shooting I have found that the unit does not have enough suction during the brining sequence to lift brine from the salt reservoir. While in this step of the process I can manually index the gear drive slightly to obtain a good vacuum. When I do this the unit does soften, but the fix is only temporary. After completing the cycle the unit returns to the previous condition. My question is: How can I reset or reposition the drive mechanism to provide the proper orientation of the regeneration mechanism? Two technicans have been unable to fix this problem. Thanks. Bob
I can't answer the specific question but... something is out of index or worn. Possibly the rotaing disc and it's gasket; or gearing. From what a fair number of people with that brand and its sister brands softeners tell me, the disc and gasket seems to be the cause of brine draw problems if it is control valve related and not in the brine tank. Did the techs replace any parts? Gary xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Company Name Removed Only Doug Aleshire, Super Moderator 2
Per the repair invoice one tech replaced the figure 8 gasket. The next tech did not have a clue. I know that the problem is related to the cycle mechanism or some internal disorder. The problem does not have anything to do with the brine/salt tank or connections. Bob
Does GE or anyone else publish a repair manual for water softeners? Thanks. Bob
That's the gasket I refered to but they didn't change the disc. They both require replacement because the disc wears on the gasket. I suspect you need both now. If 'we' put out a manual as to repair softeners, we'd need a thousand different manuals. Unless of course, we only had manuals for the big box store softeners.... but hey don't sell half the softeners that water treatment dealers do. The best way to learn repair something is to tear a good one apart and understand how it is supposed to work. Then move to the one that isn't working and find the part/area that isn't working properly and fix/replace it. www.kenmorewater.com will explain how a softener works but won't get into repair. Gary xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Company Name Removed Only Doug Aleshire, Super Moderator 2
I think that I have the same problem. When testing for suction during the brine phase, I have water that comes out of the venturi valve instead of suction. The unit is just over a year old and the gasket looks good. According to the kenmore trouble shooting site if you see the outlay on the gasket then it is no good. This is the only thing I see on the gasket. The gasket is very clean, flexible, and it can hold suction when taken off of the unit. It seems that it is another problem maybe the gasket inside the unit or something. Is there any other test I can do or is this such a common problem that I should just order some new parts? Which parts do you think need replacing for the no suction during brine phase? Thanks for the help. Rick
The same disc and gasket (kit) for $50+/-. You can find it on their site and there a number of little pieces in the kit in addition to the disc and gasket. The disc etc. goes in the control valve. Gary xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Company Name Removed Only Doug Aleshire, Super Moderator 2
I noticed the same thing as !Bob. When the softener is in the Brine phase I get little to no suction. If I press the button to advance it to the next phase and then unplug the transformer, the suction is fine and it will pull up the brine. The unit is less than two years old, and the gasket is perfectly clean and nothing is blocked. !Bob, did you ever figure yours out?
I also have a GE water softener that is about 2 years old. I have tried everything in the manual...ie. salt bridge, clean out the venturi, etc. and nothing gets it to work. Do any of you have any suggestions? Do I buy a new water softener? Should I only expect to get 2 years (really 1.5) years of use from one? Any suggestions?
My softener is working at the moment. Here are a few things I've discovered over the last few months of trying to get mine to work. 1) Don't overtighten the Venturi cap. It compresses the disk into the gasket. 2) Obviously make sure the gasket is in correctly after cleaning it. (The kenmore website explains clearly how the venturi assembly goes together) 3) The float valve in the Brine tank can get stuck if the softener hasn't been working for a while. Try pushing the top stick down while its in the brine phase. 4) Make sure to lubricate the o-ring in the venturi assembly. 5) The last thing I did (and now its working great) - I took the control valve apart and I cleaned and lubricated all the rubber seals with food grade silicon grease. Good luck.
A caution on lubricating, do not use any type of petroleum product. They cause orings and seals etc. damage. Only food grade silicone lubricants should be used. Gary xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Company Name Removed Only Doug Aleshire, Super Moderator 2
This is evidently a common design fault of GE water softeners and probably results in tens of millions of dollars per year in parts being ordered unnecessarily. A class action lawsuit should be filed to make GE fix them. In any case, the problem as you note is that over time just a few degrees of extra turning will make it work again. You obtain this extra movement by taking a pair of pliers and slightly flattening the metal arm on the switch that follows the indexing cam. This will extend the time the motor turns such that you get the few extra degrees needed to make the suction good. All other positions have much bigger slop. The suction hole alignment has to be much better. This fix worked on by mine and a friends at work softener. Good luck.
Can you help point me in the right direction please...what piece of the unit needs to have a few degrees of extra turning applied to make it work again? Where is the metal arm you are refering to? Thanks for your help...
Apparently this problem is due to a design and not a manufacturing flaw. My unit is about 2 years old and is experiencing the same problem. As per the animated diagnostics site I have replaced the gasket and nozzle in the venturi assembly with no success. I have diagnosed that 1 degree of additional rotation of the valve shaft will cause the unit to generate vacum. I am assuming this is due to a poorly designed rotating valve and seal which fail prematurely, and repeatedly. I will order the new parts and try. It is clear these GE units are consistantly failing. I have called GE and they have been less than helpful, in fact they refuse to discuss any aspect of water softeners at all! If there is any movement on a class action please let me know, I would be delighted to join.
I googled for GE water softener common problems and here I am. Amazing what you can find ... anyway enough of that I had this same problem with a ~1990 Sears Kenmore softener (same internals as the GE). Bending the actuator arm does help, but it is a temporary fix. The real problem is that the valve gets very hard to turn. If you remove the motor you will find it almost impossible to turn the valve by hand. And if you listen to the motor and watch carefully while it is driving the valve, you may hear the motor go click-click-click as it skips gears, and the valve will move forward in jerks. This should not be the case. Taking apart the control valve, cleaning and lubricate does help. When you put it back together, be sure not to overtighten the screws that hold the valve together. Just snug them up (but check for leaks of course). Once you've done this, and put the cam/gear gizmo back on the shaft, you should be able to rotate the valve fairly easily by hand. Reinstall the motor, and watch it drive. You should see no more jerks. I really don't know what causes the valve to tighten up. The parts don't look at all worn. I suspect it is a poor design. I managed to nurse along my old Kenmore for about 10 years by doing this periodically. Finally the motor burned out so I replaced the whole unit, hoping for a more reliable model. I bought the GE. And it has the same internals, and developed the same problem Argh! Serves me right for not looking under the hood before I bought. Well, I'm off to buy some silicon grease. Wish me luck. I am also going to dig deeper with GE and/or Sears about this problem. They have been making these things the same way for over 10 years. They must know about the problem, and they may have some tips for fixing it right. If I find out anything more I'll post here. - John
Hi again, Ok, I've sucessfully revived the GE water softener using the following technique. This is the same technique I used on the Kenmore. - Disassemble the control valve - Inspect the inside of the top valve housing, especially where the shaft and spring ride. Remove any hard water deposits. - Inspect both surfaces that the spring rides against. If either is worn, or has burrs, gently smooth with waterproof sandpaper. - Lube up everything with silicon grease. --- all the o-rings. --- the surfaces that the spring rides against --- the shaft --- the face of the disc - When reassembling the control valve, don't overtighten. - Make sure you can turn the cam/gear with your hand. It should be firm but not difficult. - Now the motor should be able to drive the valve to the correct position. Cheers, - John
One company, Ecodyn/Ecowater makes GE (they own Autotrol!), North Star, Kenmore and a few other big box store brands and most use the same parts. If I'm right they all have the same 3 year warranty and sell for about the same price. An fail about the same time with the same parts needed to be replaced. That old saying; you get what you pay for may come to mind... Gary xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Company Name Removed Only Doug Aleshire, Super Moderator 2
I am having the same challenge GE Water Softener Problem as Bob I only had one service call to determine the people knew less about repair than selling new units. I have replaced Nozzle/Venturi ASM (WS15X10009) No luck. So that was $84.30 for my parts and $35 for the prior service call. I think it could be the METER TURBINE not functioning properly since I can nudge the gears and it will work once. Any suggestions? Regards, Dave -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- I have a GE water softener which cycles through the regeneration process but does not soften the water. Through trouble shooting I have found that the unit does not have enough suction during the brining sequence to lift brine from the salt reservoir. While in this step of the process I can manually index the gear drive slightly to obtain a good vacuum. When I do this the unit does soften, but the fix is only temporary. After completing the cycle the unit returns to the previous condition. My question is: How can I reset or reposition the drive mechanism to provide the proper orientation of the regeneration mechanism? Two technicans have been unable to fix this problem. Thanks. Bob
What gears? If the one the motor drives there is some problem with a loss of indexing but I dont work on that make and I dont know anymore than that. If you mean the turbine won't spin, then see if it can be cleaned but isn't there a blinking light or something that tells you it is counting down the gallons? Gary xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Company Name Removed Only Doug Aleshire, Super Moderator 2
I have experinced similar problems (no soft water/no transfer of brine) with my GE Model PNSF35B installed in March 2001. The service tech replaced (2 years ago) the figure 8 in the seal kit and this solved the problem. He also indicated that Morton salt pellets have some type of coating that causes problems with the resins. He recommended the Diamond Crystal salt pellets. However, I continued to use Morton pellets for the almost 4 years of use with this unit. Recently, I started using the Diamond Crystal pellets but the unit has only had one regeneration with a mixture of Morton and Diamond Crystal pellets. It may be too late and the resins may need replacement. The recent trouble was thought to be caused by heavy salt buildup on the styrofoam float inside the brinewell. It is not clear how this float functions (start/stop fill or brining?). The salt deposits were removed, but it did not appear to solve the problem of no soft water. All troubleshooting recommendations have been followed per the Owner's Manual and everything appears to be working properly, but there is still no soft water. Should I replace this unit with a new softener, or is there something else that can be done, like replacing the resin beads? Any recommendations greatly appreciated.
If you replace the resin and it still doesn't work then you're out that money and effort. So I'd call for service and see what's wrong with it before deciding to replace the softener but... 3-6 years is the usual life of your brand. Gary xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Company Name Removed Only Doug Aleshire, Super Moderator 2
Like others on this post, I've been having problems with getting soft water from my GE water softener. It runs through the regeneration cycle but is not softening the water, the salt level has not been lowering, and I usually have too high a water level in the tank. I've been through the troubleshooting animations at kenmorewater.com. When I follow this process, it generates soft water properly, but usually doesn't soften on the next regeneration. From following the kenmore troubleshooting animation, here's what happens with my GE: During the fill cycle, when I remove the float assembly, it is not trickling water as it should, and the rod and T valve do not move. So I have to force the T valve down, and then the water starts trickling from the float assembly. This happens the same way each time. The other thing the troubleshooting animation has me do each time is remove and check the venturi assembly. My nozzle and venturi gasket slightly shows channels and wearing from the nozzle it sits under, but it is still very pliable and not cracked. I have not replaced it. After reassembling it, I check for suction and it is fine. I wait for the water level to lower, then finish the regeneration cycle. My question then is where does my problem lie? Will replacing the venturi gasket fix the problem? Do I need to replace the float assembly? Or is it something else? I'm having trouble pinpointing the exact problem and don't want to call in a tech or have to replace the unit quite yet. Thanks for any help.
Sorry, other than replacing that part or calling for service I have no idea what to tell you. Gary xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Company Name Removed Only Doug Aleshire, Super Moderator 2
I'll try and answer some general questions about reparing this valve. Unless something major is cracked, or worn out, there's no reason to trash the whole thing if you're willing to do some maintenance on it. First thing to do is buy some silicone grease. The grease I use is from Ace Hardware. It's 90% pure silicone grease (you don't have to buy a 12 pack): http://www.acehardware.com/product/i...642cp=1303829 Don't just use any faucet, valve, or plumbers grease. And don't use ANY grease that doesn't say non-toxic, or better yet food grade. When you've got some appropriate grease, read jdahms post above and do what he says. I'd add two things: 1. When you reassemble the valve cover, put the cover on and slip the gear/cam on the shaft and turn the disc until it's in service mode; 2. When you put the screws in, hold each screw perfectly vertically and push down firmly while turning counterclockwise until you hear the screw threads click one or more times. The loudest click is usually where you want to start turning clockwise and tightening the screws. The reason this is done is to prevent cross threading. Then you simply tighten each screw, a little bit at a time, until they're all snug. Try and stick a thumbnail under the head of each screw, and if you can fit it, snug that screw a little more. Then do the thumbnail test again. When the valve is reassembled, but before you put the motor bracket on, you might apply water pressure and step through each cycle by hand to make sure there's no leaks. Be careful, and have a towel handy, because sometimes water can squirt out in a thin stream, and that could hit the circuit board - a $215 item. Now some specifics: Eljoya, if I understand your problem, when you have too much water in your tank, it will pull the float up and seal the valve at the bottom of the brine tube assy. This will keep more water from going into the tank and possibly overflowing it, that's why if you push down on the rod water will flow, because you're opening the valve. This is normal. What I see your problem is, like everyone else's with the GE, that the water's not being sucked out. One thing that I don't remember anyone mentioning is that at the bottom of the brine tube, inside the brine tube valve body, there's a fine hidden screen. Pull out the small clip and yank the brine tube out. Look down in the hole and you should be able to see it. If it's clogged, corroded or damaged, that could be your problem right there. Unfortunately, I don't know remove it without destroying it, so you'll have to clean it in place. To do this, the best thing to do is to remove the large clip and pull the top of the valve off (because you have the rod and float assembly dangling from it). If GENTLY prying the ends of the clip doesn't release them, then you have to squeeze the two parts of the valve together while you pry the clip. It's ok to use a screwdriver, but pry GENTLY while you squeeze the valve tightly over the end of the clip you want to remove. Caution: At the top of the brine tube rod is a ceramic weight. When you're taking it apart, the ceramic weight will simply slide off the end of the rod. Be careful, because if it slids off and hits a concrete floor, it may shatter. Now that you have the whole thing taken apart, there should be a fat O-ring in there. If that's damaged or smooshed, then you should probably take this opportunity to replace it. If you can find a hardware store that actually sells hardware , you should have no trouble finding a cheap replacment. Now your job is to clean the screen inside the brine valve body. First try something gentle like running water through the valve, and make sure you have the stopper in the sink in case the screen should pop out. If that doesn't work, you could try something like a water pick. Soaking in vinegar might help if it's crusty, but you should probably stay away from anything stronger. Once all this is done, put a full, even coat of grease on the fat O-Ring, and on the smaller black seals at the end of the rod that go inside the valve. Squeeze the two parts of the valve together and put the big clip in. Before you reattach the tube, make sure there's a flow plug in the end of it, and it's not clogged or damaged. Put some grease on the little O-Rings at the end of the brine tube and insert it until it stops, (while making sure the ceramic float is in place and the rod is threaded through the bracket thing at the top), then put the small clip in. Do not put grease on the rubber seal on the underside of the styrofoam float, or it might stick closed. As always, check for leaks and make sure the brine tube and the drain line are not kinked. Also make sure the drain line isn't physically connected to the overflow line. Good luck.
I was having similar problems (GE softener runs throught the cycle normally but doesn't softener the water). I found that the venturi gasket was worn down so much that it fell apart when I lifted it out. I replaced the nozzle and venturi gasket as stated by someone earlier on this thread and it now works perfectly. cost $40 bucks for the part which is a lot but its a lot better than a new softener. Thanks guys!
In looking down thru this thread one common problem does come to my attention, the head or rotating disc that seems to be seizing. Don't know if all the angles have been considered. My line of work is in designing plastic parts...I wonder if the disk parts may have been made from Nylon or a similar plastic that absorbs moisture. Often designers consider the strength of the components they are designing but do not calculate for any dimensional changes or swelling that will occur due to humidity pick-up. If the disk is swelling it may cause enough interference to causing it to seize. And many that are cleaning and dissasembling them may be confused as there doesn't seem to be any scale, dirt or deposit -so one would tend to think there are no further things to look at. Swollen parts won't appear readily visible but after cleaned up and greased may still be hard to turn. At this point it might be helpful to go around any mating surfaces with a feeler guage (like we used to use to set points on a gasoline engine, to see if you can find a pinch point. Then, if practical gentle buff it with a little bit of 400 - 600 grit emery cloth to give a bit more clearance. This should be done with extreme caution...and in the event nothing else works. Pauli
All hooked up to my water softener. I had this problem once before, when I screwed around and manually tried to regenerate my unit. Now I just let it go on its' own, and I'm getting salty water. Any suggestions? Thanks.
What's your hardness set at?
I just tore down my GE 27000 grain unit. After examining the valve body I believe I know why it's relatively short lived and why repairs do not last. As the valve rotates the seals AND the valve body wear both vertically and horizontaly. replacing the components only fixes part of the problem as the new seals will flex in the worn valve body, start to jam the rotating disc, and fail after a fairly short time. The valve material, a fairly soft injection molded plastic, contributes to the problem. Apparently none of the manufacturers have picked up on this problem as the warranty is only a year and the valve should, the occasional lemon aside, easily last 3 to 5 years. Any softener with the Ecodyn valve, GE, Kenmore, Morton... will have this problem and I'd avoid them. It doesn't make sense to save 1/3 the initial cost at the most, for a softener that wont last 1/3 as long.
Thank you, folks, for the good suggestions. My softener is in the working condition now. Originally Posted by Moli First thing to do is buy some silicone grease. The grease I use is from Ace Hardware. It's 90% pure silicone grease (you don't have to buy a 12 pack): http://www.acehardware.com/product/i...642cp=1303829 Don't just use any faucet, valve, or plumbers grease. And don't use ANY grease that doesn't say non-toxic, or better yet food grade. Instead of expensive silicone grease, I have used simple butter. It works OK in the cold water and absolutely safe.
Well I am thankfull for all you post on the GE softner. This is my story...I am on my second one (warranteed) and its been about eight months since GE sent me a new softner (new model too). Now I have the tank 75% full of water. The first thing I noticed was the rod on the suction tube was stuck. I push it and pulled it till it became free. Next I took it apart. The plastic locking clip comes out quit easy if you push the tube connecter in while pulling the clip up. Clean with water and re-lube with food grade lube and re-insert. Then do the same with the larger side of this fitting. Then I removed the motor screws and I could actually see where the cam gear is marked BW, BR, S, F and R. I am almost certain I now understand how this all works. The BR is Brine fill, and the BW is back wash the bead tank(resin beads). The Brine fill is when the valve fills the salt area with water so as to salinate the water that will fill the bead tank. The salt water is what releases the hard mineral deposits on the beads. The BW is the the cycle that actually sucks the salt water into the bead tank where it sits for a period of time. The next cycle is Rinse, this is where the water is flushed from the bead tank with fresh water and sent to the drain line. I believe most of my findings to be true and much easier to understand. My tank is now drain into the beads so it seems to be working now. I will not put any Morton salt in anymore...thanks for that tip. I hope you all find this helpfull.
I purchased a GE Softener from Home Depot a little over three years ago. After two years and one month of operation, I noticed an accumulation of water in the brine tank. The first thing I did was go through the venturi cleaning/inspection routine. This had no effect on the problem. My next step was to inspect the rotor valve and gaskets. Under casual inspection, these items looked okay. I lubed up the gaskets that came in contact with the rotor valve and things worked for about 6 months. For the past 5 or 6 months, the unit has stopped working 3 times. Each time, I disassembled the valve body/rotor and re-lubed the gaskets and things would work for a while. Finally, I broke down and ordered a new rotor valve and gasket kit which I installed last evening. For the first time, I inspected the old rotor under some good lighting and the best description I have for its appearance is it looked like an old LP record - lots and lots of concentric grooves. Since replacement, the softener is one for one in successful recharges. Here's some related information. Shortly after I purchased my softener, I noticed that Home Depot has put up a large sign near the softener display warning that softeners must remain in an upright position at all times and must not be laid down during transportation. I asked a sales associate why and the answer I got was that resin would get up in the valve assembly and lead to excessive wear and premature failure. Hmmm . . . Also, the new rotor is somewhat different from the original at least in terms of appearance. The 'smooth' surface on the old rotor was all black. The surface on the new rotor is mostly white except for black outlines at the openings. I'm not sure if the material is any different or if this is purely a cosmetic change. Anyway, it will be interesting to see how long things work with the new parts. - Shemp
I HAVE NOT LOCATED WHERE I CAN GET THE PARTS. THE VENTURI GASKET IS SHOT IN THE MODEL I HAVE. I BOUGHT IT IN 1999 OR 2000. IT IS IN THE MODEL SERIES GNSF18201, GNSF23701,GNSF35201. I APPRECIATE ANY HELP WITH THIS PROBLEM. tks bc
I installed a new rotor (valve) disc and gasket kit on 6/13/2005 and it's still working. My confidence that things are fixed (at least for a couple of years) is high enough that I'm going to stop adding salt one bag at a time and fill-up the salt tank. - Shemp
Originally Posted by BCOLSTON I HAVE NOT LOCATED WHERE I CAN GET THE PARTS. THE VENTURI GASKET IS SHOT IN THE MODEL I HAVE. I BOUGHT IT IN 1999 OR 2000. IT IS IN THE MODEL SERIES GNSF18201, GNSF23701,GNSF35201. I APPRECIATE ANY HELP WITH THIS PROBLEM. tks bc The only place I could find parts is http://www.softenerparts.com/
Since the Ecowater/Ecodyne derived softeners seem to have these common problems, what brand softener do people suggest? Does the Whirlpool softener fit in the above problem category? Thanks
I bought a Clack when I gave up on GE repairs. A lot greater flow capacity and much better made.
Is Clack a control valve or a complete system? I'm looking to buy a complete system for the new house I'm moving into in a few weeks. It's already pre-plumbed for a system.
Clack is a control valve and is a much better valve than the Autotol (GE) valve. I personally prefer control valves made by Fleck. I believe Clack does not actually make the softner and they rely on authorized dealers to distribute their products. www.clackcorp.com Their web site doesn't provide a list of dealers.
Thanks for the info.
Tags: water, softener, problem, Aleshire Super, Aleshire Super Moderator, Company Name, Company Name Removed, Company Name Removed Only, Company Name Removed Only Doug, control valve, Doug Aleshire
Looking for some boxes of A Pergo floor that was sold exclusively to Lowes. It is American Cottage flooring..handscraped hickory. We are short a few boxes...if you can help please reply..we will buy from you and pay for shipping and your trouble.
Note that these DIY forums are not the want ads. It will be extremely difficult to find this type of flooring if it's been discontinued for some time. Pergo did not sell their flooring exclusively to Lowes either, they sold it at Home Depot and I'm sure other businesses. Have you contacted Pergo directly to see if they have any stockpiled?
I just bought a house that has the Pergo Handscraped Hickory in some rooms, and I wanted to buy more. Lowes doesn't carry it now, so I contacted Pergo directly to see if I could get it somewhere else. Here's their reply (dated 10/13/08): The handscraped hickory flooring is discontinued and is no longer available. Home Depot carries their own exclusive product selection. Therefore, there is nothing that crosses over from Lowe's that Home Depot would have and vice versa. The handscraped hickory flooring was exclusively sold and distributed through Lowe's Home Improvement Centers. The Potomac Hickory may be simliar but is not a cross over from the handscraped hickory floor. Hope that helps.
Originally Posted by HotinOKC Note that these DIY forums are not the want ads. It will be extremely difficult to find this type of flooring if it's been discontinued for some time. Pergo did not sell their flooring exclusively to Lowes either, they sold it at Home Depot and I'm sure other businesses. Have you contacted Pergo directly to see if they have any stockpiled? Hi. I have 14 boxes of this flooring. I too needed more and finally gave up on it. I will either sell what I have or need to buy 6 more boxes.
Originally Posted by Georgie I just bought a house that has the Pergo Handscraped Hickory in some rooms, and I wanted to buy more. Lowes doesn't carry it now, so I contacted Pergo directly to see if I could get it somewhere else. Here's their reply (dated 10/13/08): The handscraped hickory flooring is discontinued and is no longer available. Home Depot carries their own exclusive product selection. Therefore, there is nothing that crosses over from Lowe's that Home Depot would have and vice versa. The handscraped hickory flooring was exclusively sold and distributed through Lowe's Home Improvement Centers. The Potomac Hickory may be simliar but is not a cross over from the handscraped hickory floor. Hope that helps. Hi. I have 14 boxes of this flooring. I also needed more for my project and finally gave up. I will either sell what I have or will buy 6 more boxes if someone has it.
Originally Posted by mfenton Looking for some boxes of A Pergo floor that was sold exclusively to Lowes. It is American Cottage flooring..handscraped hickory. We are short a few boxes...if you can help please reply..we will buy from you and pay for shipping and your trouble. Hi. I have 14 boxes of this flooring. I also needed more for my project and finally gave up. I can either sell what I have or would like to buy 6 more boxes.
Hi, Do you still have the 14 boxes of the Pergo Handscraped Hickory, how many square feet per box. Also, where are you located.
While searching Pergo for flooring a few days ago, I came across the handscraped hickory and went today to look for it at Lowes . . I found a sample and then realized it was made by SwiftLock Plus, although except for a slight color variation, it is identical to the Pergo Potomac Hickory (which has a bit more red). I spoke to the salesperson about the Swiftlock Plus, and she offered to look up the name of the manufacturer, which turns out to be PERGO! So, the Rancho Cucamonga store has the Swiftlock Plus Handscraped Hickory, with a Store Item # of 6533, and a manufacturer's model # of 080386. The backing is identical to the Pergo Potomac Hickory, the interlock is identical the construction appears to be identical so, it's worth checking out! Good luck!
I have a Bryant 350mav furnace that won't ignite. It was working fine up until this afternoon, now there's no sign of any flame inside after the clicking (naturally on the coldest night of the year!). All the fans seem to work fine. Has the ignitor gone bad? If so, how do I check it?
http://www.gogeisel.com/geiselonline..._355MAV_OM.pdf Verify that you have a code 14 or 34. Reset power and observe the starting sequence. If the ignitor never glows after the inducer runs and you get a 14 or 34 error code you can ohm it out or visually inspect it for cracks. The pictured ignitor runs @ 76 ohms when good. If the furnace is very new it will have a different ignitor (silicon nitride) and have a different ohm reading.
The LED is showing one short and four long--which I think is Code 14. I admit I am a novice, so I am not sure where to look for the ignitor glow. Is it in one of the two windows where I used to see the blue flames (above the gas valve assembly)? I have seen other pictures of the ignitor like the one you show, but can't find anything like it on my furnace. Thanks so much, by the way, in how fast you responded. Everyone here is bundled up for the night! DD
Okay. I located the ignitor over on the right side of my furnace. I replaced it with a new one (now that it's daylight and things are open!) I set the thermostat on 80, then reset the furnance with its on/off switch. Fans worked again. Unfortunately, no flames or other appearance the new ignitor made a difference. The LED is solid until the clicking sound, then it goes to 3 short, 4 long, then after (I think) three clicks, the furnace stops the fans and goes to the Code 14. The old ignitor has some white deposits on it but doesn't have any deep pits like shown in your photo. Ideas? Dave D.
When the thermostat calls for heat, the inducer motor should switch on and come up to speed. At that point the pressure switch should close. Then the ignitor should turn on and get white hot. Then the gas valve should turn on, allowing gas to light off the ignitor. It sounds like the ignitor isn't lighting and the main burner gas valve isn't switching on. Despite that, the diagnostic lights you are getting is signaling that the burners failed to light. That suggests that the ignition control module may not be operating properly, failing to turn on the ignitor and failing to turn on the gas valve. Disconnect the ignitor at the plug and use a multimeter to see if 120 VAC is switched on after the inducer motor comes up to speed. Also check for 24 VAC across the gas valve to see if that is getting turned on. (And check to be sure that the manual and electric gas valves are turned to the on position).
If it turns out to be the controller board, about how much should those run? $250? $150? $10?? I just want to know when I call the parts store if they are in the ballpark or if I should look elsewhere.
I'd look for a Carrier/Day and Night/Bryant/Payne distributor and see if they will sell to you, or shop on line. A furnace repair outfit will be buying from one of those outfits and adding a healthy markup.
Okay. Replaced the ignitor and the control board. Furnace took a much longer run-up time before igniting, but the burners came on and hot air is blowing! Cost: $26.00 ignitor, $250.00 for the board. I did see boards for 350MAV's online from $250 down to $100, but I could not be sure the cheaper ones were the correct replacement as there seems to be a variety of different boards in the system. I am thinking that except for filters and a new fuse, the 350MAV only cost about $40.00 a year in maintenance--not bad. Thanks for your help! It definitely reassured me I was on the right track with the board and not something like the gas valve or such. Dave D.
One other item for others who install a new board: The new controller board has waayy different timing than the old one. So don't be surprised if the furnace blower starts running 10-15 minutes before the ignitor kicks in. (My old one took just a minute before ignition.) This really threw me when the furnace kept running and running without ignition. (Egads! Is it broken again?? Nope--there goes the glow!) Apparently, the new board works with a variety of furnaces and I guess has to make allowances for different configurations.
Originally Posted by ddoering One other item for others who install a new board: The new controller board has waayy different timing than the old one. So don't be surprised if the furnace blower starts running 10-15 minutes before the ignitor kicks in. Actually, I would be surprised. I doubt very much that such a delay should be occurring. I'd be especially suspicious that the pressure switch isn't closing reliably, allowing the ignitor to switch on as the next step. I's check that out, and read what the installation manual for the ignition control says about such timing.
Curiously, those ignition delays have now gone away. (Possibly the controller had to adjust to the new system?) The furnace seems to be running fine--considering it is not gone about 10 degrees here for the last four days the unit is certainly getting a good shakedown. Dave D.
No. Hope for the best, but it will probably be baaaaack!
No way, on that delay. I second the motion on the pressure switch not closing. It is currently marginal and the problem will be back, more than likely. Unless you coincidently had snow blocking the vent pipe, and it now melted. That, in fact, is so common (during huge snow storms, with say drifting and or people shoveling/ banking snow against their house) that some honest reputable furnace companies will even mention about making sure the vent pipe is clear, over the phone, rather than drive out and charge a person for something like this, where no actual mechanical malfunction is involved.
Tags: bryant, 350mav, ignite, controller board, pressure switch, 10-15 minutes, 10-15 minutes before, 10-15 minutes before ignitor, 10-15 minutes before ignitor kicks, after inducer
Home built in 86', stucco on wood frame, about 900sqft of main attic above the second floor and all I have is two gable vents. I used a smoke pen and there is pretty much no air movement what so ever up there. In summer the upstairs cooks and you can feel it through the ceilings. Winter it is the opposite. I spoke with my neighbor yesterday who has an identical home and she said they had the same issue with their home. Three years ago they has soffit vents added and an attic fan which she swears drastically changed the cooling and heating of their home. Are soffit vents that easy to install? On my garage I see the bird hole type soffits with mesh screen behind them drilled out but that does not correspond to the upstairs of my home and do anything. I saw soffit covers at HD in which it looks like I would just have to cut out a hole in the wood soffit and stick the vent in and be done. Is that the case? I would like to add some soffits and even a gable vent fan to get air circulating better after air calculations of course. I also plan on adding 12 more of insulation but want to get the venting proper first.
Do you indeed have soffits, meaning the roof hangs out past the exterior wall and has a horizontal underside exposed to the outside air such as would be the case on ranch style house? If so, I would recommend installing insulation baffles between the rafters/trusses at the top of the exterior wall and then install perferated soffit material to admit air to the attic. And also install ridge vents on the roof ridge to allow the attic air to escape.
Correct, the roof hangs over the exterior, in line with the exterior wall are 2x4's between each rafter which I assume are the soffits correct? I did plan on installing the baffles which just slide into place for the most part correct? What do you mean install perferated soffit material, I assume this is the soffits material i saw at HD? Also a ridge vent is out of the questions, I don't have the funds for that and I have an all tile roof. Thanks
ff....I have the same thing as you, only a rancher of about 1600sf. I priced 2 snap in vent caps from a wholesale builders supply, thought I would just drill 2-3 holes per bay and snap them in. Need at least that many to get any benefit, the 2 only provide something like 3/4 free area, which is what you are concerned with. Don't have the info anymore, but I would have spent something like $300 just for the vents. I have 2 turbine vents in addition to 2 large gable vents...but it still gets real hot, going to do something probably this year. Since you have tile..the small caps will be your only option, but since its a 2 story, its gonna be a royal pain (and kinda dangerous) to install them. You might be able to drill the holes (gonna need a lot of bits and a good corded drill!) and take a piece of PVC pipe to move the insulation out of the way, then install baffles later if needed. My roof has a very low slope (yours too?) and getting out to the edge from the attic is a real bear.
GunGuy: I'm a little confused, why would the 2 snap in be my only option due to the tile roof? There is enough clearance for me to get my drill or sabersaw in the area i would need to put the new vents. I saw ones that were like 4x10 I believe for like $1.97 a piece. I can easily get to the soffits on the back of the house but front of the house would be tricky, that also brings me to another question, would I have to add soffit vents to each side of the house or can I get away with just the rear if I can get enough ventilation that way? Luckily my attic has a pretty good amount of room, I have prob 10ft dead center and it pitches down from there to the sides. I should be able to get out towards the edge without to much issue from the attic. Is this the type of soffit vents you are referring to, only yours are a little smaller? Master Flow 4 in. x 4 in. Plastic Wall Mini Louver Vent White (4-Pack) - RLSC4 at The Home Depot
Perhaps I misunderstood your description. This is what my soffits look like... [IMG][/IMG] In the front and back (where the gable vents are) the stucco goes all the way up to the roof sheathing...so no way to do anything there. I don't know the exact terminology and can't find a good image...but normal soffits come straight out horizontal from the wall and meet the end of the rafters, and there is no blocking between the rafters/trusses. So air can flow up from under the roof through the soffit and out the gable or roof vents. Maybe yours are different..but this is very common construction up here. Something like this back in VA would be strange indeed.
I can't see the picture at work but from your description I think I know what you are referring to. For my house the soffit vents are in line with the exterior wall. If you were to follow the wall up to the top you would have an open eve that hangs over and where the rafters meet the exterior wall in between each one is a 2x4 (I think its called a bird Soffit?) I have provided links to two pics, if you look at the first one that is how my rafters are set up with the blocking in between, the second would almost be how the soffit vents would need to mount. Hopefully they links work but if not google image Bird Soffit http://t1.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:A...X7MNXS9THo1A_- http://t0.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:A...Cv9NB-al5joIsk
Yes...same kind of stuff. I just can't get my head around how you would use a jig saw (or any saw..) to cut rectangular holes in a 2x4 from either side. Try cutting a rectangular hole in a 2x4 with a jig saw even when its easily accessible...not easy! If you were planning to just drill...even then, try putting a wood bit in most drills and be able to drill a hole w/o hitting the roof. What I meant about only option with a tile roof..was some sort of soffit vent. Ridge vents CAN work with gable vents, but you can't install them...so the only way to increase the flow is from below.
I can get access to it fairly easily but i do have to verify how thick the wood is up there. If its not that thick it shouldn't be to bad. Maybe its not ax actual 2x4 between the rafters, I just assumed it was. I will dig into a little more today and see exactly what I am up against.
Saw your image gunguy and yes that is how mine look. I guess I will see what is the easiest approach is once I get up there and start measuring but I'm pretty sure I can lay out a template, drill some pilot holes and work the jig saw that way without to much trouble.
Bumping this up, is it going to be an issue only putting soffit vents on the back of the house? I have no way to even get to the front part of the house. Its beautiful out tonight I went up in my attic just to see how it was and it is at least 20degrees hotter right now. Nothing is circulating up there.
For best results, you should vent both front and back of the house. If yours is like GG45's, I would remove the blocking between the rafters at the top of the wall, install insulation baffles, install vents in the blocking, and re-install the blocking.
How would I go about removing and re-installing the blocking? I know for best results I should do the vents on both the front and back but right now I really have no way of getting to the front. The front of the house has two tiers of tile roof tops. If I were to throw a ladder up to get to the top of the roof the angle would be unsafe (to horizontal). I guess i could possibly try from the inside of the attic but even then it would leave limited room to work with. Would it still work just doing the rear of the house?
With all due respect to wirepuller.....I can't even imagine taking out and reinstalling the blocking. We're talking major surgery with a sawsall and a really ugly look after trying to put them back. Pretty sure mine are nailed though the rafters into the blocking and the sheathing is also nailed into it. And cutting openings through a bunch of 2x4s with a jigsaw.....brrrrrr...makes me cringe. I'd rather drill a bunch of 1 holes, shove some schedule 20(?) thinwall pvc though past any insulation and figure out a way to cap the outside that doesn't look like crud. FF...we really need some pictures...http://forum.doityourself.com/electr...your-post.html
can get you pics thats not a problem but it looks just like the picture you posted. Is there anything in particular you want pics of?
Maybe just some longer shots, so the Pros understand the issue. I'm kinda fuzzy on when you talk about front and back...but that could just be orientation of the house. Almost all of them in my area have the peak front to rear. Any extra air flow from the bottom will be a benefit.
Use a hole saw to cut the 2 holes into the blocking WITHOUT removing it. Sorry wirepuller, but I'm with GG on that one. The blocks are butt nailed at one end, toed on the other, and probably have the sheathing nailed down from the top as well. The bird blocks will slide right in. Depending on the exact diameter of the ones you use, you may need to tap them in with a rubber mallet, or you may need to put a little dab of silicon into the hole (bottom 1/3 or so) and slide the bird block into it. Just installed about 200 of them at my parents house last year. Had to go to 2 different stores to get that many, and the diameter was slightly different. Some needed the mallet to get them in, others slide right in.
Lefty, your saying to use the existing bird blocks and drill out 2 holes and below you are saying replace the bird blocks..... Am I not reading that right? Gunguy, I will snap some shots tomorrow and post them up. Only reason I can get to the rear soffit areas of the house is because I have a covered porch which gives me access to get up those easily. The front of the house is a lot harder for me to get to.
Thanks, guys for being easy on me. I will admit my suggestion would be a LOT of work. I am mainly concerned about insulation behind the blocking. Until that issue is resolved, the vents will not help much. Now I see what the problem is with doing the front of the house. I guess I would not want to set a ladder on a tile roof either.
fox_forma, you didn't understand what I said. I'm saying leave the wood blocks in place, drill the holes in them, and install the birdblocks -- the 2 metal vents -- in those holes. Wirepuller38, of course we were easy on ya!! I totally agree with you about the insulation having to be pulled out of the way for the vents to work. But that is probably easier to accomplish from inside the attic using a rake as opposed to cutting out the blocking. Easiest rake that i've found to us in an attic is one that the width of the head can be adjusted on. Look in the garden center at a local box store or other garden center.
Ah I see what you mean Lefty, when you said install bird blocks I was pituring the actual soffit bird block. When I was at lowe's yesterday grabbing some stuff they had 6x16 bird blocks already drilled out and I thought that is what you meant. I checked HD's website and they had larger soffit vents, on their site they say aluminum but they also had vinyl ones which I thought would be best. 2 holes I can do as well but I would need a lot more placed to cover how much air intake I need. Construction Metals Inc. 16 in. x 4 in. Aluminum Soffit Vent in Brown - FOV164BR at The Home Depot
Man...I just can't imagine drilling that many holes and having to pry the plugs out each time. I think when I figured mine out at 3 per bay it was about 180. Lefty....how many hole saws did you go through?
Actually, I used my Milwaulkie right angle drill with a 2 auger bit to drill the holes I had to drill. And about 2/3's were already done -- I wasn't starting with totally solid boards all the way around like you are.
Tags: adding, soffit, vents, easy, bird blocks, drill holes, exterior wall, soffit vents, tile roof, between rafters, front back, front house, gable vents, back house
A Phillips screwdriver is common in toolboxes, but a Pozidriv is not.
Many people are familiar with the standard flat-head and Phillips screwdrivers, but most people are not familiar with the large variety of other screwdrivers available. Standard screwdrivers will suffice for everyday applications, but for people looking to work with consumer electronics or install screws for tamperproof applications, it might be a good idea to study up on the other tips screwdrivers can have.
Torx
Available in both standard and tamperproof versions, Torx-head screws are commonly found on automobiles and consumer electronics. Both versions are shaped like six-sided stars, but the tamperproof version has a pin in the center of the star. The pin means that a standard Torx-bit screwdriver would not work to install or remove a tamperproof Torx-head screw, but a tamperproof Torx-bit screwdriver could install or remove both kinds of screws. Torx screws are also sometimes referred to as finish-head screws.
Pozidriv
Pozidriv bits are designed to minimize the risk of stripping the screw. Essentially an improved version of the Phillips bit, Pozidriv bits consist of a cross like a Phillips bit, but they also have four more contact points in between to keep the bit from slipping when driving the screw. Pozidriv screws are used in many of the same applications as Phillips bits.
Internal Hex
Internal hex screwdrivers have a hexagonal bit that is inserted into a hexagonal recess in the head of the screw. Screws that use this type of bit are found in assemble-at-home furniture kits and are common in bikes and electronics. Typically, people with experience with this type of screw have used Allen wrenches, but there are screwdrivers made to accommodate internal hex screws. The common size for internal hex screws is 5 mm, but the screws come in a wide range of sizes.
Square Recess
Screws with a square recess, also known as Robertson screws, are designed to keep bits from slipping when driving the screws. These screws are also referred to as trim-head screws, and they are used for finish applications such as installing trim and decking. The bit of the screwdriver and the head of the screw are both tapered so the screw can rest on the driver without being held in place.
Other Bits
There are a variety of other bits as well. Spanner screwdrivers work with security screws that have two slots that pins on the screwdriver are inserted into. Tri-Wing bits are Y-shaped bits frequently used in the production of consumer electronics. Trilobular bits are shaped like rounded triangles and are used in the production of electronics. Each of these bits is designed to discourage tampering.
Many denture wearers mistakenly believe that since dentures are not real teeth, they do not need the same amount of care as real teeth do. However, dentures need more attention than real teeth. Dentures are very fragile and harbor bacteria in your mouth if not cleaned properly. It is important to follow a strict cleaning and care regimen to protect your gums and give your dentures the longest life.
Brushing
Every night when you remove your dentures, you need to brush any loose particles of food off of the teeth. Soaking the dentures in water for 10 minutes helps to loosen any stuck pieces, especially any leftover denture adhesive. Using your denture brush and your denture cleanser, gently brush the teeth, just as you would your own. Never use toothpaste on the dentures as it may damage the fragile teeth. Baking soda is good to use but an over-the-counter denture cleanser is always best. Do not forget to brush the inside of your mouth as well and make sure your dentures are out if you rinse your mouth with mouthwash. Never leave your dentures dry. Never wash your dentures in the dishwasher or any boiling water. They will become warped and unusable.
Soaking
After thoroughly brushing and rinsing the dentures, soak them in a solution of one part water and one part vinegar or aloe vera. The vinegar and aloe vera helps to reduce the growth of a fungal infection on the dentures.
Wash After Meals
Rinse your dentures under running water after every meal and never wear your dentures to bed. Your gums need time to rest and rejuvenate after having dentures in all day. They get this rest during the night when your dentures are in a glass next to your bed and not in your mouth.
Clean Your Denture Brush
Soak your denture brush in a solution of one part water and one part bleach just once a week to kill any bacteria in the brush.
Report Improper Fits
Always contact your dentist if you are experiencing any problems with your dentures. Improper fitting can lead to sore spots and further problems so be sure to let your dentist know if your dentures are uncomfortable.
Use Dazzle to convert old video formats, then edit the video with Movie Maker.
The Dazzle DVD Recorder is a piece of hardware that allows you to convert your old VHS tapes or other media to a digital format. If you have Windows Movie Maker, you can use Dazzle as an input device to import video. Getting started requires that you make a connection between the Dazzle and Movie Maker.
Instructions
1. Connect the Dazzle to a USB port on your computer.
2. Open Movie Maker and click Capture from Video Device under Capture Video.
3. Look for Audio Device in the window that pops up. Click the dropdown menu and select Dazzle from the list of available audio devices, then click Next.
4. Give your file a name in the Enter a file name box at the next screen, then click Next.
5. Select the quality settings you want for your video at the next screen. Best quality for playback on my computer will suffice if you don't have a preference for quality. Click Next once you have selected your quality setting.
6. Click Start Capture at the next screen to begin importing the video into Movie Maker. You will see the video in the viewer screen as it is being imported. Click Finish when you have imported all the video you want to use. The video will then be placed in the Collections pane of Movie Maker.
7. Drag the video from the Collections pane to the Timeline/Storyboard to begin making edits or adding transitions.
Toyota has added a very useful remote control for unlocking your car doors and gaining entry to your truck. These remotes can even start your engine or access your panic alert system, which provides security in vulnerable situations. Although these remotes can come in handy, they run on batteries, which lose power over time. If you haven't ever had to change the remote battery on your Toyota remote control, you're in luck. With the right instructions, you can change it in only a couple of minutes.
Instructions
1. Insert one of your car keys into the small hole that is located on the front of the remote, then pull it forward. You can identify this hole by the small indentation. Your remote's battery cover will now be removed.
2. Pull out the existing battery from the holder within the remote. The battery will be a round-shaped piece of metallic construction.
3. Insert the new battery in the place of the old one in the remote. Place the battery writing side up, so that the positive and negative sides correspond with the battery holder. The positive side goes to the positive(+), and the negative to the negative(-).
4. Click the remote cover back into place carefully. Be sure to line up the edges with each other so as not to break any of the connection pieces. Now your Toyota remote will be ready for use.
Motorcycles use wet clutches that are bathed in primary chain case oil. The clutch pack consists of a series of friction and steel plates that are engaged to one another by pressure from the powerful clutch spring. The friction plates are splined to the clutch basket and the steel plates are splined to the transmission shaft. The friction plates will wear down with use and must be replaced to maintain proper clutch pack thickness and prevent clutch slippage under power. Clutch pack kits are available from the manufacturer and include the friction plates only.
Instructions
1. Remove the primary chain case drain plug with an Allen wrench. Position the catch pan to collect the draining fluid. Inspect the drain plug magnet for excessive metal salt that may indicate a severe problem in the primary case.
2. Remove the shifter lever and the left foot peg with Allen wrenches. Remove all of the primary chain case bolts with an Allen wrench. Pull the primary cover off of the engine.
3. Put on the safety glasses. Remove the clutch spring retaining snap-ring with a pair of inside snap-ring pliers.
4. Pull the clutch spring and the clutch end cover off of the clutch pack. Slide the clutch pack out of the clutch bracket. Note the order of the clutch plates to aid in reassembly.
Scuffing the bottom of your boots prevents them from slipping.
Slipping, tripping or falling makes you feel less confident and even silly in front of others, which is not how you want to feel in your boots. Not all shoes are slip-resistant, which means you may need to take measures into your own hands and treat the bottom of your boots to prevent them from slipping.
Instructions
1. Sand the bottom of your boots with a piece of sandpaper to make the soles rougher and less likely to slip on a smooth surface.
2. Use a knife to cut shallow X shapes (1/16-inch or smaller) in the bottom of your boots to give them additional traction, which prevents you from falling due to slippery floors.
3. Stick double-sided tape to the soles of your shoes to prevent slippage when walking on smooth surfaces.
4. Walk outside wearing your boots and move the soles of your shoes back and forth across the driveway to damage the bottom of the soles, which causes them to gain traction and lose the smooth surface.
Although a niche market, sewing machine repair can provide a fair level of income generation, allowing you to either make some extra money in your spare time or start a new career. Sewing machines are fairly complex devices, requiring a substantial amount of training to properly service and repair. There are many different ways to obtain training for sewing machine repair, so select the one that best suits your situation and personality.
Instructions
1. Purchase a do-it-yourself book and teach yourself the basics of sewing machine repair. Purchase several models of used sewing machines to practice on, and spend your free time taking them apart and putting them back together until you are comfortable performing basic diagnostic work on sewing machines. Although this is not the most conventional method for learning the trade, it can help if your schedule affords you little opportunity to seek professional training.
2. Locate a sewing machine repairman in your area and inquire about the possibility of serving an apprenticeship. As an apprentice, you will learn the trade while working under the seasoned eye of a professional. Although you should not expect to make a full wage while serving as an apprentice, the tricks of the trade that you learn during your time of service can help to increase your efficiency once you are fully trained.
3. Seek out a training school for sewing machine repair and attend classes. This will allow you the opportunity to learn from skilled teachers in a classroom environment while having the opportunity to bounce ideas off of your classmates, making it a good opportunity to network for your future career in sewing machine repair. Sewing machine repair courses are available at any number of state colleges or technical schools.
Vegetable oil dripped or spilled onto suede shoes leaves a dark stain. Quick action from you can take care of this, however. The longer you wait to treat oil on suede, the more difficult it may be to remove the oil--so act fast. You won't need much to clean it; you may in fact have the necessary ingredients in your kitchen. If you don't, you'll be able to find the right product easily enough at your grocery store.
Instructions
1. Place the oil-stained suede shoes on paper towels. The towels will protect other surfaces from the product you will use. Or you can just do this outdoors if the weather is nice.
2. Cover the vegetable oil stain completely, and as soon as possible, with cornstarch. Press the cornstarch lightly into the suede, as suggested by MrsCleanUSA.com. Cornstarch is an excellent material for absorbing oils.
3. Allow the cornstarch plenty of time to absorb as much oil as possible. MrsCleanUSA.com recommends letting it sit for at least an hour. If you choose, you can also leave it on overnight.
4. Tap the shoe against a hard surface to shake off the cornstarch. Use dry paper towels to wipe off more of the cornstarch and then finish by brushing the suede with a suede brush. If any discoloration remains, some oil may be left. Re-apply cornstarch and let it sit for another hour or ovenight before brushing it off.
Tips Warnings
Stylephyle.com suggests talcum powder as an alternative to using cornstarch. Just leave it on overnight and brush it off in the morning.
If any discoloration from the oil persists, use a commercial suede cleaner on the shoes.