Hardwired power strip
This seems OK to me, but thought I'd ask if there's anything wrong with it... I am organizing all my phone, network, and tv cabling into a couple of metal enclosures. To satisfy the need of various DC transformers for devices, I put a power strip / surge protector in there. I ended up attaching an electrical box on the bottom of the network enclosure and within that hardwired the power cord of the power strip to the load side of a nearby GFCI receptacle. (To be exact, I ran some #12-2 NMB from GFCI to the electrical box and wire-nutted that to the power strip, having cut off its plug.) Originally I was going to put a receptacle in the bottom of the enclosure and plug in the power strip, but there just wasn't room for it that way so I went with the hard-wired approach. Is this implementation OK? Thanks. I'm not much a fan for hardwiring flexible cordage into fixed wiring. Does the outlet strip contain overcurrent protection? Is the cordage 12AWG? You mention a space concern. Would a flat exit plug been appropriate? 400.8 USES NOT PERMITTED. Unless specifically permitted in 400.7, flexible cords and cables shall not be used for the following: (1) As a substitute for the fixed wiring of a structure... Hmmmm... I was afraid there'd be a problem. From a safety standpoint, what is practically wrong with doing this? Is it that the power strip cannot be unplugged? Is there a heat resistence problem w/ the cord? From the surface of it, it seems like it'd be no big deal to eliminate the plug/receptacle from the connection equation... after all the same cord is attached to the same wiring when you plug into the receptacle... here the connection is made w/ wire nuts. If I have to change it, I will need to find a very flat 90-degreee 3-prong plug... any suggestions? You have modified a device--the power strip--this breaks a UL rule and possibly a law. You have also substituted temporary wiring for fixed wiring. Fixed wiring isn't very flexible, and doesn't make a good extension or appliance cord. Installed correctly, it's considered a permanent installation. On the other hand, things like power cords are flexible, but they are not expected to last forever, therefore they cannot be used as fixed wiring. Technically, you are not even supposed to mount a power strip to a wall, desk, etc. Your setup is probably not an imminent fire hazard, but you have violated at least one UL and one NEC rule. I believe these rules are intended to keep people from doing things like running an extension cord through a wall to extend a circuit, etc. I wouldn't take a chance, say, with a building inspector or insurance company. Perhaps in the future we will run DC circuits in our houses instead of having all these wall-warts. Another issue to consider: Your power strip is probably rated at 15 amps with 14-gauge wires. By hard-wiring it to 12/2 and (presumably) a 20-amp circuit you have a potential for overheating the power strip's wiring before the breaker trips. Since you've run the 12/2 already, why not just put in a couple of quad boxes with receps near the metal enclosures, plug your wall-warts into them, and run the low-voltage lines from the wall-warts into the metal enclosures? Use nylon inserts in the knockout to protect the low-voltage wiring's insulation from nicks scrapes. This has an added benefit of keeping the AC line power physically separated from the low-voltage signal wiring to prevent interference in the TV lines. BTW, I may be opening a whole new can of worms for you, but how did you get the 12/2 from the existing GFCI into the new electrical box? Originally Posted by Rick Johnston By hard-wiring it to 12/2 and (presumably) a 20-amp circuit you have a potential for overheating the power strip's wiring before the breaker trips. BTW, I may be opening a whole new can of worms for you, but how did you get the 12/2 from the existing GFCI into the new electrical box? Rick, no it is a 15amp circuit, I just always use 12 gauge wire. Let's back up and start where I should have... I presume its ok to have the receptacle in the bottom of the enclosure, since Leviton sells expensive ones to fit in there. The enclosure has a large rect. knockout for receptacle. Using some brackets, I attached (to the bottom outside of enclosure) a metal receptacle box. The 12/2 cable is run from the GFCI receptacle into the attached receptacle box on the enclosure. Originally I installed a receptacle there, but the plug on the power strip was so big it got in its own way when I tried to plug it in and made the thing sort of useless. That's when I cut off the plug and hardwired it to the 12/2 line. I believe this is no worse than plugging it into the receptacle, but I will bow to the NEC, though I think this implementation is not exactly what their rules are designed to prevent. I can revert back to the receptacle in the bottom of the network enclosure if I can find a suitable 90-degree 3 prong low profile plug to attach to the power strip cable. The alternative of having the wallwarts outside the box seems messy to me, but I guess I could go that route. I was just trying to hide everything in the wall (to be placed later). Is it against code to have the power strip mounted in the network box? I'm not sure about your can of worms... so let me know. But here is another one that I am wondering about... a) can you run the electric cable through the same holes bored through studs as cable/network cables are run? b) I have some holes that I made regretably too small. I have wires passing thru and its a bit tight, but I don't think anything is damaged. Any suggestions? Or is it OK and lesson to drill larger holes next time. Thanks for your help. Something like this? Image courtesy Radio Shack It's not a good idea to run power and signal lines parallel to each other. Power should be separated by at least 1 foot, but every little bit helps. Originally Posted by DavidT Is it against code to have the power strip mounted in the network box? Power strips using flexible cordage should not be permanently mounted. This is in spite of several that have mounting ears and holes. However,you can buy multi-outlet strips that are rated for permanent installations. Originally Posted by DavidT a) can you run the electric cable through the same holes bored through studs as cable/network cables are run? No, not code compliant. For the reason that Class 2 wiring is not as tough with installation abuse as listed power wires. Also, as noted before, interference/coupling is much more likely. Note that flexible cordage can be made with rubber insulation, and that is a bad thing for permanent wiring. A fifty year old rubber insulated extension cord is junk, while 50 y/o PVC based wiring is still typically fine. Therefore, the NEC is forced to forbid any/all cordage as in-wall wiring. It is true that some one-off design using non-compliant components COULD be safe, and COULD have been designed by an on-site engineer, but that's a long way outside the current state of the NEC for residential wiring. Yes, Rick something like that. TelecomGuy thanks for the info... I will make the appropriate changes as for the hardwiring of the power strip and also separating the electrical and other cables. Because of a heating vent that bisects the room, I am forced to have the Cat5/CATV lines running parallel to the power lines... and for about 10' they are (unfortunately) right next to each other. The main power line is not yet energized, but we'll see if this causes significant problems down the road. I'll also take a fresh look at loosing the power strip... but the problem is that I wanted surge protection on the power, catv and telephone lines and this is the only way I know get it. What are my options? I can get a receptacle w/ built in surge protection, I know. I assume I can gang that together with regular receptacles so they are also protected? I know its the wrong forum, but what are options for surge protection on the CATV and telephone w/o involving a power strip? (I want to protect everything at the source.) I use a ISOBAR local surge protector. I use the built-in telecom and CATV ports as well. Yes, I do screw it to the underside of my desk (so sue me ). I don't hardwire it. If you do get a high qual protector, this will include some RFI filtering, that will somewhat mitigate running signal and power cables together. I use a load panel whole house TVSS, in my case a GE deal that mounts in the place of a 2 pole breaker. Insure that the incoming telephone, CATV, and A/C power use the same grounding electrodes (ground rod, etc). You've done what you can... On the right angle plug. Several co's make right angle NEMA 5-15 3 wire plugs (Hubbell) . Feel free and chop off the existing plug and put on your own. The UL void discussion applies to manufacturers and those intending resale.
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